Forum Title: why copper required for valve to tub spout
In the installation guide for a Delta rough-in valve: ... it states that: "Pipe (3) between valve body and tub spout must be a minimum of 1/2" (13 mm) copper pipe or 1/2" (13 mm) iron pipe in a straight drop no less than 8" (203 mm) but no more than 18" (457 mm) long with only one iron pipe or copper 90 degree elbow to the tub spout nipple. Do not use PEX tubing for tub spout drop." Anyone know why such strict requirements, especially the requirement that copper be used ? Obviously it's a bad thing when plumbing that's buried in a wall fails, so maybe they just think copper is less likely to ? Debatable, but that's another discussion I guess. And bathtub plumbing it's likely to be a bigger problem - if it's buried behind tile or a fiberglass one-piece, as opposed to just drywall (though there's often drywall access to the backside of a bathtub).
Category: Plumber Post By: JAIME RAMSEY (Clearwater, FL), 08/11/2016

Adding another shower head you can run into problems with water pressure. Not enough flow when both of them are running. There are three way divirter valves that can be installed into the wall to direct your flow to where you want but they cost just as much as a new shower valve normally. In the situation where people want 2 shower heads I usually put in two valves one for each head. I also run 3/4'' water line to the first valve and tee it off with 1/2'' to feed the 2nd valve. This is for better pressure when both valves are running at the same time.

- ADRIAN NEAL (Taylor, MI), 09/18/2017

The tub spout can be copper, brass, or galvanized pipe. You cannot use pex because the pipe coming out of the valve needs to be able to support the weight of the tub spout and handle the abuse of pulling/ pushing down of the divirter built into the spout. The instructions may recommend copper because the tub spout is designed to slip over 1/2'' copper and tighten down with a allen screw(this is to be done after the shower walls have been installed). the 8'' minimum rule is you don't want to get your tub spout and face plate for the shower valve to get to close together (i usually rough mine in at 12'' from center of the valve to center of the pipe for the spout. hope this helps you out.

- ROBIN FISHER (Bremerton, WA), 09/20/2017

Yeah, thanks, helps a lot. With the slip-on w/ set-screw, why doesn't water leak out when you activate the shower (since it can't be all that tight a seal that way) ? Related question: I want to have shower at end of tub as normal, but spout along the long side, so that two people can lean against both ends of tub. Better to have faucets next to spout, or at the end where the shower is ? I figure closer to spout is better, so diverter works the way it's supposed to; but will there be enough pressure/flow at the shower head that way ? Or is it really better to have two faucets (one for shower, one for spout, but more expensive) ? Thanks.

- SHAWN SULLIVAN (Youngstown, OH), 09/24/2017

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